WE ARE in PASTEL :)
Photoshoot Dian Pelangi, Hijabers Community and Risty Tagor in Ancol Beach
WE ARE in PASTEL :)
Photoshoot Dian Pelangi, Hijabers Community and Risty Tagor in Ancol Beach
Niche SS14 Lookbook
Don’t tell me that Gender Fluid is a lie.
Don’t tell me that Gender Fluid is just a phase.
Don’t tell me that Gender Fluid is childish.
I live and breath my gender fluidity. I proudly stand within the Gender Queers in support of a new, gender variant society.
Gender is the seed that has sprouted into the discriminatory, bigoted & bland society we live in. When you dig down deep into the issues surrounding the world right now it all comes back to one tiny little fuck up. The idea that biological sex somehow determines the gender roll of individuals is a lie. In fact, gender rolls is a lie. Just because I identify as gender fluid does not mean that I must uphold any societal expectation, associated with gender fluidity.
Plain and simple, I plan on having two children.
I will not teach my little boy to “be a man.”
I will not teach my little girl what it means to “be a woman.”
Instead, i’ll teach my children to just simply be good people.
Because a society full of good people makes for a better life than a society full of classified, judgmental, opinionated and shallow people.
This message brought to you by House of Alexzander
I have ingeniously invented a new way to tie a regular old tie. I call it the ‘dandy femme’ tie. This is officially my new favorite way to accessorize. Fancy.
Oh shit, I need to try that look.
Dolce & Gabbana f/w 14.15
one of my biggest faults as an artist is that I don’t draw enough poc’s. This kid hangs around my neighborhood, and every once in a while at about 3:30 he walks past my window, looking incredibly fashionable and untouchable in every way. this is for you bro
So my historical costuming resources list from 2011 was less than a page long- I’m not saying that I’ve learned a lot in the past three years, but this list is now sitting pretty at a solid nine pages. Whew. And people wonder why I want to redo this damn series.
This list is by no means an exhaustive one- it’s a list of (primarily western) historical fashion resources, both online and offline, that is limited to what I know, own, or use! It’s a work in progress, and I’m definitely hoping to expand on it as my knowledge base grows. First things first, how about a little:
ADVICE FOR RESEARCHING HISTORICAL FASHION
- Read, and read about more than just costuming. Allowing yourself to understand the cultural and historical context surrounding the clothing of a particular region/period can be invaluable in sussing out good costume design. Looking at pictures is all well and good, but reading about societal pressures, about construction techniques, daily routines, local symbolism, whatever else will really help you understand the rhyme and reason behind costuming from any given context.
- Expand your costume vocabulary. When you’re delving into a new topic, costuming or otherwise, picking up new terminology is essential to proper understanding and furthering your research. Write down or take note of terms as you come across them- google them, look up synonyms, and use those words as a jumping off point for more research. What’s a wire rebato? How does it differ from a supportasse? Inquiring minds want to know.
- Double-check your sources. Especially on the internet, and double especially on tumblr. I love it, but it’s ground zero for rapidly spreading misinformation. Books are usually your safest bet, but also take into account their date of publication, who’s writing them- an author’s biases can severely mangle their original source material.
- Don’t be afraid to ask for help. Do everything you can to find out information on your own, but feel free to reach out to people with more specialized areas of knowledge for help! Be considerate about it- the people you’re asking are busy as well- but a specific line of questioning that proves you’re passionate and that you respect their subject matter expertise can work wonders.
Okay, onto the links!
It’s impossible to overstate the importance of getting off the internet and looking into books! God bless the internet, but books are (generally, this isn’t a rule) better-researched and better-sourced. Bibliographies also mean each individual books can be a jumping off point for further research, which is always a fantastic thing.
Remember- owning books is awesome and you should absolutely assemble your own library of resources, but LIBRARIES. Libraries. You’ll be surprised to find what books are available to you at your local library.
GENERAL / SURVEYS
- British Costume from Earliest Times to 1820
Fine book with lots of first hand sources, but be wary of the photography in the book- reproduction costumes and thus somewhat less reliable. Though hilarious.
- Corsets and Crinolines
Norah Waugh’s invaluable survey of corsetry and corset patterns- used the world ‘round by modern corsetieres.
- Costume in Detail: Women’s Dress 1730-1930
Elaborate line drawings/diagrams of extant period garments! A fantastic survey.
- Cut of Men’s Clothes
PDF available online! Patterns for men’s period garments.
- Cut of Women’s Clothes
Patterns for women’s period garments.
- Greenwood Encyclopedia of Clothing Through World History
This is a library find, unless you have a pretty three hundred bucks lying around- a great, general resource.
- A History of Costume
A lot of good text and info, to be taken with a grain of salt. Be wary of any reconstructions and or “supposed” patterns that aren’t directly based on extant garments or firsthand accounts.
- Fashion (Taschen 25th Anniversary)
A survey of the Kyoto Costume Institute’s fashion collection- broad but beautiful. On every fashion student’s bookcase.
- Fashion: The Definitive History of Costume and Style
Great overview of fashion history from the Smithsonian and DK publishing.
- The History of Costume: From the Ancient Mesopotamians Through the Twentieth Century
Broad costume survey, second edition.
- What People Wore: 1,800 Illustrations from Ancient Times to the Early Twentieth Century
this is one of those “I am putting this here because I used it a ton when I was younger” but man, mixed bag. Really cool survey to browse through, but also work that is a copy-of-a-copy-of-a-copy in most instances and thus not necessarily trustworthy as a resource.
- What People Wore When: A Complete Illustrated History of Costume from Ancient Times to the Nineteenth Century for Every Level of Society
A collection of Racinet and Hottentoth’s costume plates from the 19th century. A beautiful survey but, since these are later illustrations, to be taken with a grain of salt.
Patterns fo Fashion books
Detailed, hand-drawn diagrams of historical fashion, inside and out. Pretty amazing stuff.
- Patterns of Fashion: The Cut and Construction of Clothes for Men and Women, C.1560-1620
- Patterns of Fashion 1: Englishwomen’s Dresses & Their Construction C. 1660-1860
- Patterns of Fashion 2: Englishwomen’s Dresses & Their Construction C. 1860-1940
- Patterns of Fashion 4: The Cut and Construction of Linen Shirts, Smocks, Neckwear, Headwear and Accessories for Men and Women C. 1540-1660
Fashion in Detail books
Not what you want if you’re looking for photos of entire costumes- note the “in detail” bit up there. Just a beautiful series, and great reference for all the little things you might miss otherwise. The V&A has an amazing fashion collection, and it’s great to see them share it with the world.
- Nineteenth Century Fashion in Detail
- Seventeenth and Eighteenth-Century Fashion in Detail
- Underwear: Fashion in Detail
- World Dress: Fashion in Detail
The one non-western entry in the series.
- Fashioning Fashion: European Dress in Detail, 1700 - 1915
LACMA’s response to the V&A’s series mentioned above, also an invaluable resource for historical fashion detail.
Reblogging this again— this time to add/contribute sources! So, here’s what I’ve got (and hopefully I won’t repeat anything):
- The Art of Dress: Fashion in England and France, 1750-1820 by Ms. Aileen Ribeiro
- Central European Costume I (via archive.org)
- Central European Costume II (via archive.org)
- Central European Costume III (via archive.org)
- The Complete Costume History (25th) by Francoise Tetart-Vittu
- Costume: fanciful, historical, and theatrical by Eliza Aria (via archive.org)
- Costumes of All Nations by W. Duke Sons & Co. (via archive.org)
- Costume of the Russian Empire by Edward Harding (via archive.org)
- Dame Fashion: Paris - London, 1786 - 1912 by Julius M. Price (via archive.org)
- Deutsch & Co. Fall and Winter Catalogue, 1891 by Deutsch & Co. (via archive.org)
- Dress in Eighteenth-Century Europe 1715-1789 (Revised Edition) by Aileen Ribeiro
- Eaton’s Fall and Winter Catalogue, 1899-1900 by T. Eaton Co. (via archive.org)
- Eaton’s Fall and Winter Catalogue, 1909-1910 by T. Eaton Co. (via archive.org)
- Eaton’s Fall and Winter Catalogue, 1913-1914 by T. Eaton Co. (via archive.org)
- Eaton’s Fall and Winter Catalogue, 1920-1921 by T. Eaton. Co. (via archive.org)
- Eaton’s Spring and Summer Catalogue, 1904 by T. Eaton Co. (via archive.org)
- Eaton’s Spring and Summer Catalogue, 1905 by T. Eaton Co. (via archive.org)
- Eaton’s Spring and Summer Catalogue, 1906 by T. Eaton Co. (via archive.org)
- Eaton’s Spring and Summer Catalogue, 1907 by T. Eaton Co. (via archive.org)
- Eaton’s Spring and Summer Catalogue, 1913 by T. Eaton Co. (via archive.org)
- Eaton’s Spring and Summer Catalogue, 1916 by T. Eaton Co. (via archive.org)
- Eaton’s Spring and Summer Catalogue, 1917 by T. Eaton Co. (via archive.org)
- Eighteenth-Century French Fashions in Full Color by Stella Blum
- Elegant French Fashions of the Nineteenth Century by Florence Leniston and JoAnne Olian
- English Costume (4 volumes) by Dion Clayton Calthrop (via archive.org)
- Fashions and Costumes from Godey’s Lady’s Book: Including 8 Plates in Full Color (Dover Fashion and Costumes) by Stella Blum
- Fashion and Fiction: Dress in Art and Literature in Stuart England by Aileen Ribeiro
- Fashion in the French Revolution by Aileen Ribeiro
- Fine Millinery: fall and winter styles for ladies, misses, and children, 1899-1900 by H. O’Neill and Co. (via archive.org)
- Full-Color Victorian Fashions: 1870-1893 by JoAnne Olian
- Great Ballet Prints of the Romantic Era by Parmenia Migel
- H. O’Neill and Co. Fall and Winter Catalog, 1890 by H. O’Neill and Co. (via archive.org)
- H. O’Neill and Co. Spring and Summer Catalog 1898 by H. O’Neill and Co. (via archive.org)
- Mode in Hats and Headdress by R. Turner Wilcox (via archive.org)
- New York Fashions, 1907 by National Cloak and Suit Co. (via archive.org)
- New York Fashions, 1908 by National Cloak and Suit Co. (via archive.org)
- New York Styles: fall and winter, 1919-1920 by Perry, Dame, and Co. (via archive.org)
- New York Styles for Women and Misses, 1915 by Perry, Dame, and Co. (via archive.org)
- The Royal Tailors: junior sample book, 1916 by Royal Tailors (via archive.org)
- The World of Fashion and Continental Feuilletons, vol. 6 (via archive.org)
- The World of Fashion and Continental Feuilletons, vol. 13 (via archive.org)
- The World of Fashion and Continental Feuilletons, vol. 15 (via archive.org)
- Yester-year, Ten Centuries of Toillette by Albert Robida (via archive.org)
Okay, that was long, but hopefully people will find these additions helpful. Basically, anything by Eileen Ribeiro is a must-have, The Complete Costume History weighs and costs a ton but is worth it, and Archive.org is a goldmine of fashion magazines, periodicals, and such.
FUCK YEAH NUGOTH
by Weronika Szczepańska
model: me, Soki-Angel